Burger Battle of the Midwest Chains

By: Mikey Griglak, Staff Writer

Small Cheval is all dim lights and controlled chaos, while Culver’s feels like stepping into a cozy Midwest living room. Totally opposite vibes, same cult-like devotion. But in this Burger Battle, only one spot gets the crown.

Culver's burger, cheese curds, and shake Image Credit: Mikey Griglok

Small Cheval has a fun outdoor-but-inside vibe and ample seating throughout the restaurant. The location I visited near Lincoln Park is basically designed for greasy pre-going-out food. Chatting across tables with other patrons seems to be the norm, and you can feel the inspiration of the original Au Cheval in the space. Culver’s in Wrigleyville is just as convenient before hitting Sluggers or the other neighborhood bars. But the restaurant itself has the plain, functional feel of a typical fast-fast joint. On atmosphere there is no competition: Small Cheval is a good time and Culver’s is behind the times.

Small Cheval keeps its menu simple—one side, fries. Although a classic pairing for a burger, the Small Cheval fries leave something to be desired, requiring extra salt to cover up the fact that they're undercooked. Culver’s, on the other hand, offers a Midwestern cornucopia of side options. On this visit, I opted for the cheese curds, but they also offer fries, onion rings, and some questionable deep cuts like side salads and steamed broccoli. Sides are not necessarily the standout of either restaurant’s menu, but the cheese curds alone would give Culver’s the win in this category. On top of that, the crinkle cut fries are always well fried and perfect for dipping into Culver's frozen custard.

Small Cheval burger & fries Image Credit: Mikey Griglok

Speaking of custard—on my visit, I paired my salty fries with a Culver’s chocolate shake, a combo that immediately transported me back to Wisconsin summers. Culver’s has an impressive lineup of shakes and mixers, and they execute them well. Small Cheval is similar but will go the extra mile to add liquor to your shake, which is an excellent way to kick off the weekend. The beverage choices at Small Cheval only add to the fun but chic atmosphere and surely contribute to the friendly and chatty crowd. For a Friday night bevy to accompany my burger, Small Cheval has the stronger lineup.

Although ambiance, sides, and drinks all contribute to the experience, the battle really must be won on burger quality alone. There is a reason that both chains have obsessed fans. The Small Cheval burger is a juicy double patty, served with your choice of toppings, and typically a Dijon spread. The Culver’s Butterburger is also a default double patty, and in true Wisconsin fashion can be ordered as a triple. The patties and cheese can’t help but spill out of the bun, but the primary difference is the quality local cheese and buttered bun on a Culver’s burger. The Culver’s burger alone is nearly 1,000 calories, about double a Small Cheval burger—and the tastebuds can tell. The Culver’s burger is an explosion of greasy goodness from the first bite to the last. The Culver’s Butterburger is a knockout punch. After four rounds, the Burger Battle champion title belongs to Culver’s. Small Cheval brings the atmosphere and cocktails, but Culver’s wins where it counts: the burger itself. Read More Food Reviews: The Best Asian Restaurants in Evanston Eating Evanston: Sea Ranch Sushi and Evanston Pour

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